Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Nerium AD : Ingredients (part 3)


Let's review the ingredients in NeriumAD and talk about the most prominent ingredients. Nerium International claims the nerium oleander is the active ingredient in Nerium AD. I question the amount of nerium oleander extract that is actually in it due to the toxic nature of oleander. Brand partners seem to be very excited that oleander fights cancer. What makes people think, because nerium oleander extract has shown some evidence in studies that it fights cancer, that it is a good thing to use on the skin? Cancer drugs are potent toxic chemicals that kill cancer cells and cause tremendous side effects. 

An ingredient list lists the product ingredients in descending order of prominence. The first ingredient is their NAE-8 Proprietary Blend, which is a secret blend of Aloe Baradensis leaf and Nerium Leaf Extract. Being first, it is the most prominent ingredient, the NAE-8 not nerium leaf extract. Aloe is listed before nerium in the parentheses letting us know that there is more aloe than nerium in the NAE-8. Believe me, I have tried and I have had other people try to find out the actual percentage or even a ballpark percentage of nerium oleander extract that is in it, but no one will give out the information.  I speculate that the percentage of nerium extract is extremely low which implies that NAE-8 is mostly aloe. There has been very little research done on nerium extract and it's effects on the skin therefore, there isn't enough evidence to consider it to be an active anti aging ingredient.

The second ingredient on the list is Aloe Barbadensis Leaf. I like aloe it is very hydrating and soothing for the skin. Aloe leaves contain a clear gel that can be used on the skin. It has a slippery feel and creates a tightening feeling on the skin as it dries. It makes the skin look plumper and healthier. Aloe was used 6000 years ago by the Egyptians.  It has been used for years topically and orally as a folk and traditional remedy for a variety of ailments including acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, dry skin, dandruff, indigestion and other stomach issues, diabetes, asthma, burns and sunburn. It has anti bacterial, anti viral, anti fungal and anti inflammatory properties. It has not classified as an active anti aging ingredient, though.  

It may cause irritation in some people. Some people can be allergic to it since it is a plant extract, but that doesn't make it a bad ingredient. People who are allergic to garlic, onions and tulips are more likely to be allergic to aloe. 

The third ingredient, Proprietary Protein, is another mystery. Again, I tried to find out the exact protein source and percentages, but no one will say. I personally do not use collagen or elastin products due to the fact that they are derived from bovine sources. They can't penetrate the skin so they will not fill in lines. They are used as moisturizers.

There are a variety of emollient and humectant ingredients on the list that are good for conditioning and hydrating the skin. They are not necessarily active anti aging ingredients but the will make the skin look plumper and moister. 

The last ingredient, Vitamin E, is an active anti aging ingredient, but it is last on the list which tells us there isn't much in there. (Top 12 Anti Aging Ingredients)


The ingredient list for NeriumAD:

NAE-8 Proprietary Blend (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf, Nerium Oleander Leaf Extract) - Aloe barbadensis leaf and nerium oleander  leaf extracts. This remain a mysterious blend. Nerium International will not tell you the percentage of nerium in this product.  

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf- A compound expressed from the leaves of the Aloe Barbadensis plant. It is 99.5% water and contain various plant compounds. It good for hydrating the skin and plumping up wrinkles. Used in the treatment of burns. Can cause allergic reactions.

Proprietary Protein (Collagen, Elastin, Glycosaminoglycans)Collagen and Elastin are derived animal tissue frequently bovine sources. It is not shown to have an effect on producing or building collagen or elastin within skin when applied topically. The protein molecules are too big to penetrate the skin but are good water binders. Nerium International will not tell you the source of their protein. Glycosaminoglycans are mucopolysaccharides that are unable to penetrate the stratum corneum when topically applied. Hyaluronic acid is part of this ingredient group. Used as moisturizers.

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil- Rice oil- An emollient

Stearic Acid- A commonly used emollient that occurs naturally in butter acids, cascarilla bark, and other animal fats and oils.

Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol - Fatty Alcohols used as emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners and carruing agents. Made synthecically or can be naturally derived as in coconut fatty alcohol.

Glycerin- A humectant, it draws water to the skin.

C14-22 Alcohol and C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside - Long chain alcohol emollients.

Glyceryl Stearate- A widely used emulsifying ingredient.

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil- Castor oil.

Cetyl Alcohol- An emulsifier and emollient.

Olus Oil- A vegetable oil.

Chondrus Crispus Powder- Carrageenan. A red algae. Used as a thickener.

Sodium Borate-  A pH adjuster. Can be irritating.

Dicaprylyl Ether- An emollient.

Hydrolyzed Quinoa- A protein. Binds moisture to the skin. It is a film forming agent.

Sodium Isostearoyl Lactylate-  emulsifier

Dimethicone- Silicone. Great as a primer to fill in wrinkles.

Sodium PCA- A water binding agent.

Proprietary Blend (Caprylyl Glycol, - a skin conditioning agent, Glycerin- a humectant,  Glyceryl Caprylate -wetting, fatting, moisturizing agent,  Phenylpropanol- solvent )

Parfum-Fragrance

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate- A preservative

Tocopherol- Vitamin E

Here is more in my NeriumAD series:

Nerium Part 1: Nerium Oleander Side Effects

Neruim Part 2: How Does It Work?

NeriumAD Part 4: An Aloe Product

Links for more info:

Read a review from Paula Begoun, The Cosmetics Cop

Anti Aging Skin Care Tips












No comments :

Post a Comment