/> The Juicy Beauty Word: Nerium AD: How does it work? (part 2)

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Nerium AD: How does it work? (part 2)

oleander flowers
Nerium AD claims it's antiaging cream makes skin look younger from nerium oleander.

How does the controversial nerium oleander extract do it's anti aging to the skin? 

How can a plant that is one of the most poisonous plants in the world make the skin look younger? 

I set out to find out. 

After scouring the pages of Nerium International, Nerium Skin Care and Nerium Biotechnology, I find no explanation. 

There is very little research regarding oleander as a cosmetic ingredient due to it's toxicity. 

The Nerium people just tell you it works. Research shows "age defying results". Pictures show anti aging effects. Blah, blah, blah. It's amazing how a change in lighting can affect a photo!

What does oleander actually do to the skin?

Other anti aging ingredients have specific actions on the skin.

Peptides trigger a response in the skin telling it to make collagen. 

Antioxidants fight free radicals that cause aging damage to our skin. 

Fruit acids (alpha hydroxy acids) and retinoids remove dead skin cells and cause an irritation below the skin's surface stimulating collagen production. Basically, the body is trying to defend itself from the irritant. I suspect nerium oleander works in the same fashion. Being a toxin, it causes an irritation. 

How Does Nerium AD Work

Dr. John of Bare Faced Truth says this, "If we take the Dr Newman’s MD Anderson research at face value, oleander extracts are likely causing an inflammatory stress response. In the short term this causes fibroblasts to pump out matrix (GAGs, collagen, elastin) and draws fluid to the area, which may hide wrinkles in the short term, and superficially, but the underlying structures are “inflammaging” with bad collagen cross linking leading to an ultimately more disturbed architecture (but feels like “skin tightening”). Take away the stress stimulus, the excess fluid leaves, the real damage appears. The cake has fallen. Now of course we keep hearing things like “it’s not the same stuff”, the extract is a new “non-toxic” one. So, why would you start with oleandrin in the first place, if you wanted something that doesn’t work like oleandrum? And why would your “proof of safety rest on testing to make sure that you cannot detect potentially deadly glycosides in blood after topical application? Do you see how this toxin turned miracle cure just doesn’t add up scientifically or logically?"

Nerium AD Active Ingredient

Let's have a closer look at the active ingredient. The first ingredient listed on the Nerium AD label is NAE-8 Proprietary Blend (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf, Nerium Oleander Leaf Extract).

This is a mixture of aloe and nerium extracts. How much nerium is actually in there? No one will tell you. 

I have repeatedly contacted Nerium to find out the percentage of nerium that is in NAE-8. 

“The information on our Proprietary Blend has not been disclosed to our customers.” says Miriam G, a member of the support team. “As that's part of our proprietary blend, we're not able to release that information. Enjoy your day.” says Mary of Nerium International. I have also had Brand Partners ask to no avail.

The Nerium web page tells us this, "NeriumSkinCare products use a patent-pending extraction technology known as Bio-PL²®. This extraction technology incorporates pure liquid Aloe Vera to extract specific Nerium Oleander plant components while preserving the natural integrity and beneficial properties of both plants. The results of this new technology NeriumExtractNAE-8® has allowed NeriumSkin Care to create a "first of it's kind", age-defying night cream, NeriumAD®"  

Hey! I remember hearing that "first of it's kind" phrase about Anvirzel!

Do you think this unique extraction process renders the oleander extract non toxic? 

How could it? They say the process "preserves the natural integrity" of both plants. The leaves are toxic. 

The Nerium statement says it extracts specific Nerium Oleander plant components. Are components the same as compounds? It has been reported that there are over 500 different compounds in oleander. 

Nerium told one brand partner that there was a "molecule" of nerium oleander in the product. A molecule is the smallest unit (particle) of a compound that has the physical and chemical properties of that compound.

There is no sense in asking Nerium International. 

They won't tell you anything about their secret NAE-8. Which makes me wonder. 

In the creating of NAE-8, aloe is used to extract specific components of the nerium which makes me believe that NAE-8 is more aloe than nerium. 

Aloe is listed first in the parentheses after NAE-8 Proprietary Blend. Aloe is also the second ingredient on the ingredient list.


Maybe there is really just a minuscule amount of the active ingredient nerium in it. 

Maybe it's really the aloe that is making the skin look better. Let's talk about aloe and the other ingredients in Nerium AD tomorrow. (NeriumAD Part 3: Ingredients)

Here is more in my NeriumAD series:

Nerium Part 1Nerium Oleander Side Effects

Nerium Part 3: Ingredients

NeriumAD Part 4: An Aloe Product

If you must try it, try it for less on Amazon.

Thanks for stopping by!
        Have a Beautiful Day! 
Licensed Cosmetologist, Esthetician, Makeup Artist

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